The spice that is sold in the United States and Canada is actually derived from the bark of the cassia tree. It is a stronger, hardier plant than the Ceylon cinnamon, which is true cinnamon. The flavor of the cassia is stronger, and branches and entire trees, small ones, are harvested for the bark. Ceylon cinnamon is harvested for small shoots, making it much more delicate and expensive. Cassia has a rougher texture and looks more like bark than true cinnamon. True cinnamon peels off in layers; cassia is one thick piece of bark.

Cassia is an Asian spice mentioned in the Bible and used in the mummification process in Egypt. Moses was ordered to use cinnamon along with other botanicals to anoint the Ark of the Covenant and it is mentioned again in the book of Psalms. Cassia is used mostly in cooking, it is aromatic, warm, sweet but compared to true cinnamon it is bitter and astringent. The Greeks and Romans used cassia to flavor wine and it is thought that the Greeks also left cassia at temples along with incense and myrrh as gifts for the temple. Doctors in ancient times thought cassia could cure snakebites, freckles, colds and kidney ailments.

Cassia is currently being tested to determine whether it has a real effect on blood pressure. It is possible that it may ease hypertension. It is also been tested for use by diabetics to reduce blood lipid levels. In Germany there were concerns that the coumarin levels were too high. Coumarin is a factor in cassia from which several anticoagulants are derived, that inhibits hepatic synthesis of vitamin K-dependent coagulation factors. Other countries are not as concerned and have higher limits for coumarin intake.

Those who believe in its magical powers use cassia oil for meditation; those powers are purported to extend to defense, energy, power, protection, success, health and healing, lust and love, money and riches, creative work, astral projection and purification. On a slightly less esoteric level, its aromatherapy uses include use of the oil to get rid of lice and scabies, ease wasp stings, aid in poor circulation, stimulate contractions in childbirth, cure a number of gastric and digestive conditions, rheumatism, coughs, colds and viral infections and warts. Additionally it is used for strengthening, as a restorative and as an aphrodisiac.

These curative powers are a common thread running through the botanicals used in making gin. Cassia is warm, as is juniper, and the oil is an astringent. Its slightly bitter aspect blends well with the sweetness of angelica root and licorice and balances well with the citrus found in the sweet orange. Most of these botanicals are thought to help in digestion, aid in eliminating insomnia, are used to fight infection or disease and they all boast of being aphrodisiacs. With the new breed of superior gins like G’vine, some with as many as 19 infused and distilled herbal flavors, these botanicals are the secret ingredients that make the magic something to believe in.

The licorice plant is a member of the legume family, meaning it is closer to lima beans than jellybeans as most candies that taste like licorice these days are flavored with anise rather than licorice. It is the root of the plant that is used; the liquid is extracted from the pulpy root and boiled down to a thick, syrupy consistency or reduced even further to a solid form which can be powdered. Licorice root contains a compound that is 50 times sweeter than sugar; in some places the root is dug up washed and chewed to freshen the breath. Dried licorice root can be eaten like candy. In Syria, Italy and Egypt all have variations on drinks made from licorice extract.

Licorice root is also one of the botanicals used in some gins. Bombay uses licorice root, as do Blackwood’s Nordic Dry, Citadelle, Mercury and G’Vine, which also uses grape flower as a flavoring. Beefeater is also a common gin that also uses licorice root. It adds a bittersweet flavor that perfectly supports a gin & tonic as well as adding a bite to any cocktail where gin is front and center, such as a martini or French 75.

Licorice has a long history, going back 4,000 years. King Tut was buried with a supply to take with him into the next life. The Chinese have used licorice for medicinal purposes since ancient times. Started in the 1930’s, the use of licorice in the manufacturing of tobacco for chewing or smoking is still one of its primary uses, making up about 90% of the total usage. Some shampoos and conditioners are also scented with licorice root and it is used for some fore extinguisher compounds. Old wives’ tales about licorice say that chewing on bits of licorice root enhances lust and love, especially for women. Pass the Sen-Sen, please!

Cough syrups, throat lozenges, mouth ulcers and tooth powders are all uses for this botanical. Licorice is an expectorant, an agent that soothes and cools, an anti-inflammatory agent and has been known to successfully treat stomach ulcers. Canker sores have been effectively treated with a licorice mouthwash. The main active ingredient in licorice is glycyrrhizin and it is known to stimulate the activity of the adrenal glands. Licorice root is also being used to treat patients with hepatitis C. Further studies are also beginning to suggest licorice is an effective treatment for heart disease as it may help to reduce high blood pressure. One study has shown some effectiveness in treating patients with HIV and Japanese encephalitis, but those studies remain inconclusive and the findings have yet to be duplicated in larger studies.

Licorice can be administered in teas, lozenges, mouthwashes, chewable tablets, liquid form (tinctures) and dried root. As with any herbal medication, special care should be taken to see if licorice reacts with any medications already being taken. Using licorice for extended periods of time can also have adverse effects, so care must be taken to avoid adverse reactions or side effects.

As you sip pensively on your martini this week, know that the subtle licorice flavor evokes much more than the box of Good ‘n’ Plenty that you get at the movie theater. As a medicinal herb, it’s been around a long time. Ancient warriors chewed on the root of the sweet licorice plant to quench their thirst when there was no water to be found. Licorice is the gin botanical of a million uses, including making your gin more tasty.

In the recent article Gin Time, Cheers Magazine reports on the increasing popularity of gin, attributing it to a combination of classic cocktails and the rise of New Western gins like Bluecoat, Beefeater 24 and Aviation.  They have it half right. Classic cocktails are the foundation of gin’s rise in popularity. Interest in all the classics like the Negroni, Pimms Cup and, of course the martini, have all contributed to gin’s recent popularity.

However, excellent cocktails demand a flavorful gin, and the focus on New Western gins is misguided. A martini without the woodsy elegance of juniper is disappointing at the least, and evolves into flavored vodka at the worst. Juniper defines gin. Distillers can play with the botanicals around the juniper to create innovative new gins. However, the less juniper you have, the less gin you have. New Western gins can function as “starter gins” for the fearful. However, gin needs juniper and, as the article states, “juniper-forward gin brands continue to lead the gin category.”

Juniper is not a cultivated crop. The plants grow wild and the people who harvest the berries pick by hand and throw the berries in a sack. It takes berries from more than one supplier to make up the amount a big distillery needs. Luckily, a little bit of juniper goes a long way. The berries are harvested in the fall and go through rigorous testing by each distiller to meet the grade necessary for a consistent quality beverage.

Gin is not the only the product based on the juniper berry. It is an important spice in the traditional dishes of Central Europe such as sauerkraut and venison. In ancient Rome, juniper berries were used in place of peppercorns that were rare and expensive. Juniper berries used for cooking are always crushed, never used whole. They are used sparingly, mostly with game meats, pork or for curing fish. Recipies that highlight juniper range from simple dishes like Blueberries in Gin Syrup to more subtle dishes like Juniper-Brined Roast Turkey. Yum!

When cooking with juniper, remember that it is used as a diuretic and also as an agent to stimulate uterine contractions during labor. Breastfeeding women, women who are pregnant, people with kidney disease, children under 12 and elderly people should not eat food prepared with juniper.

Juniper is used widely in herbal medications. It is used in the treatment of urinary tract infections. Its oil has an antiseptic quality that disinfects the urinary tract as it passes through. The berry also has a diuretic effect that dilutes the urine. It is also used in the treatment of bladder stones. It is used as a digestive aid and as a relief to many gastrointestinal disorders. It is purported to help with rheumatism, arthritis and gout. Applied as a poultice made with its diluted essential oil, it warms the tissues by perfusing them with blood. It relieves the pain of swollen and aching muscles and joints. Juniper can be inhaled as a vapor to help treat bronchitis and pulmonary infections and the berries can even be chewed to freshen the breath and heal infected gums. As was pointed out in using juniper in the kitchen, care must be taken in its usage and a qualified professional should supervise all usage. Because juniper bushes are plentiful in the grazing areas of sheep it has been noted that it has a curative effect on them, also. Local veterinarians used it to cure dropsy in sheep.

Botanicals have a rich history and role in folklore, juniper is no exception. The Holy Family was said to hide from King Herod’s soldiers in a juniper bush. In Grimm’s fairy tale called “The Juniper Tree,” murder, cannibalism and revenge all make for gruesome bedtime reading. Juniper was burned during outbreaks of the plague. Scottish folklore claims the smoke from juniper wood fires was used for ritual purification of temples. It is used for “smudging” a house to clear it of evil spirits and used a charm to ensure long term protection.

Juniper is the defining ingredient in gin, but the family has grown recently, adding new takes on the standard recipes. The selections range from Hendrick’s Gin, with its infusion of cucumber and rose to evoke the feel of drinking in an English garden to Aviation Gin in which lavender gets equal time all the way to Junipero, a gin hoped up on juniper-steroids so as to resemble a Steinhäger dry gin, one that is aromatic, but with few botanicals added. Finding the perfectly juniper-balanced gin for this evening may take awhile, but it is time well spent.