The spice that is sold in the United States and Canada is actually derived from the bark of the cassia tree. It is a stronger, hardier plant than the Ceylon cinnamon, which is true cinnamon. The flavor of the cassia is stronger, and branches and entire trees, small ones, are harvested for the bark. Ceylon cinnamon is harvested for small shoots, making it much more delicate and expensive. Cassia has a rougher texture and looks more like bark than true cinnamon. True cinnamon peels off in layers; cassia is one thick piece of bark.

Cassia is an Asian spice mentioned in the Bible and used in the mummification process in Egypt. Moses was ordered to use cinnamon along with other botanicals to anoint the Ark of the Covenant and it is mentioned again in the book of Psalms. Cassia is used mostly in cooking, it is aromatic, warm, sweet but compared to true cinnamon it is bitter and astringent. The Greeks and Romans used cassia to flavor wine and it is thought that the Greeks also left cassia at temples along with incense and myrrh as gifts for the temple. Doctors in ancient times thought cassia could cure snakebites, freckles, colds and kidney ailments.

Cassia is currently being tested to determine whether it has a real effect on blood pressure. It is possible that it may ease hypertension. It is also been tested for use by diabetics to reduce blood lipid levels. In Germany there were concerns that the coumarin levels were too high. Coumarin is a factor in cassia from which several anticoagulants are derived, that inhibits hepatic synthesis of vitamin K-dependent coagulation factors. Other countries are not as concerned and have higher limits for coumarin intake.

Those who believe in its magical powers use cassia oil for meditation; those powers are purported to extend to defense, energy, power, protection, success, health and healing, lust and love, money and riches, creative work, astral projection and purification. On a slightly less esoteric level, its aromatherapy uses include use of the oil to get rid of lice and scabies, ease wasp stings, aid in poor circulation, stimulate contractions in childbirth, cure a number of gastric and digestive conditions, rheumatism, coughs, colds and viral infections and warts. Additionally it is used for strengthening, as a restorative and as an aphrodisiac.

These curative powers are a common thread running through the botanicals used in making gin. Cassia is warm, as is juniper, and the oil is an astringent. Its slightly bitter aspect blends well with the sweetness of angelica root and licorice and balances well with the citrus found in the sweet orange. Most of these botanicals are thought to help in digestion, aid in eliminating insomnia, are used to fight infection or disease and they all boast of being aphrodisiacs. With the new breed of superior gins like G’vine, some with as many as 19 infused and distilled herbal flavors, these botanicals are the secret ingredients that make the magic something to believe in.

Let’s start with the basics: this gin is not subtle. It has been described by some as a punch in the gut. But, it is far more than that. It is no less than the American attack on London Dry Gin, combining the foundation of juniper with the enthusiasm and creativity of the New World. Yum.  The nose is subtle, hinting at juniper but mixing botanicals into a spicy blur that is simply enchanting. This gin brings you back to the days of Winston Churchill, who made his martinis by simply pouring gin into a glass and glancing across the room at a bottle of vermouth. Those were the good ol’ days.

You’ll find Junipero an excellent starting point for a strong gin & tonic. Mmmm. If you feel adventurous, go for a glass on the rocks.  Let it sit for a moment, savor the aroma and then take a sip, considering the bright future of gin.

The licorice plant is a member of the legume family, meaning it is closer to lima beans than jellybeans as most candies that taste like licorice these days are flavored with anise rather than licorice. It is the root of the plant that is used; the liquid is extracted from the pulpy root and boiled down to a thick, syrupy consistency or reduced even further to a solid form which can be powdered. Licorice root contains a compound that is 50 times sweeter than sugar; in some places the root is dug up washed and chewed to freshen the breath. Dried licorice root can be eaten like candy. In Syria, Italy and Egypt all have variations on drinks made from licorice extract.

Licorice root is also one of the botanicals used in some gins. Bombay uses licorice root, as do Blackwood’s Nordic Dry, Citadelle, Mercury and G’Vine, which also uses grape flower as a flavoring. Beefeater is also a common gin that also uses licorice root. It adds a bittersweet flavor that perfectly supports a gin & tonic as well as adding a bite to any cocktail where gin is front and center, such as a martini or French 75.

Licorice has a long history, going back 4,000 years. King Tut was buried with a supply to take with him into the next life. The Chinese have used licorice for medicinal purposes since ancient times. Started in the 1930’s, the use of licorice in the manufacturing of tobacco for chewing or smoking is still one of its primary uses, making up about 90% of the total usage. Some shampoos and conditioners are also scented with licorice root and it is used for some fore extinguisher compounds. Old wives’ tales about licorice say that chewing on bits of licorice root enhances lust and love, especially for women. Pass the Sen-Sen, please!

Cough syrups, throat lozenges, mouth ulcers and tooth powders are all uses for this botanical. Licorice is an expectorant, an agent that soothes and cools, an anti-inflammatory agent and has been known to successfully treat stomach ulcers. Canker sores have been effectively treated with a licorice mouthwash. The main active ingredient in licorice is glycyrrhizin and it is known to stimulate the activity of the adrenal glands. Licorice root is also being used to treat patients with hepatitis C. Further studies are also beginning to suggest licorice is an effective treatment for heart disease as it may help to reduce high blood pressure. One study has shown some effectiveness in treating patients with HIV and Japanese encephalitis, but those studies remain inconclusive and the findings have yet to be duplicated in larger studies.

Licorice can be administered in teas, lozenges, mouthwashes, chewable tablets, liquid form (tinctures) and dried root. As with any herbal medication, special care should be taken to see if licorice reacts with any medications already being taken. Using licorice for extended periods of time can also have adverse effects, so care must be taken to avoid adverse reactions or side effects.

As you sip pensively on your martini this week, know that the subtle licorice flavor evokes much more than the box of Good ‘n’ Plenty that you get at the movie theater. As a medicinal herb, it’s been around a long time. Ancient warriors chewed on the root of the sweet licorice plant to quench their thirst when there was no water to be found. Licorice is the gin botanical of a million uses, including making your gin more tasty.

The Gin & Tonic has probably has the richest history of any gin beverage. Tonic water’s history in Europe dates back to the 1600’s, but it has been in use far longer by the Quechua Indians of Peru. The unique flavor of tonic water comes from quinine, which the Indians derived from the bark of the cinchona tree, or “quina”.  It has been used as medicinal “tonic” to relieve the symptoms of malaria and alleviate shivering in cold temperatures. Some believe it can help restless leg syndrome, leg cramps and other problems because it acts as a muscle relaxant.

Today’s commercial tonic water is only a distant, sweet “lite” version of the original. In the United States, this quinine-less flavor arises from the Food and Drug Administration (FDA) limits for tonic water content to be less than 83 parts per million. That’s for good reason. Health benefits aside, quinine at medical concentrations has plenty of side effects, from cardiac arrhythmia, Cinchonism and other risks from overdose. Consult the FDA summary for more information. Therefore, if you dare to explore this “how to make tonic water” post, be careful that your concentration of quinine is not too strong and check with your friendly neighborhood chemist to confirm it. Legalese: Don’t blame us if you get sick.

Nevertheless, homemade tonic water is delightful – much more flavorful than the processed dreck that most purveyors sell (Q Tonic, Fentimans and John’s Premium Tonic Syrup are notable exceptions). Many interesting recipes on the web (such as here, here and here), include exotic ingredients like saffron, lemongrass and allspice that only distract from the taste of a gin – even though they may be fine beverages to help rescue a vodka and tonic from inadequacy. After skillful research, many catastrophes in the Wired Gin labs – as well as some delightful tastings – here is how to make the best homemade tonic water in the world:

The Ultimate Tonic Water

• A scant 1/4 cup of Cinchona Bark
• One quart (four cups) of water
• Juice and zest of two limes (or lemons if you want a brighter “right of the pond” taste)
• 1/4 cup of Citric Acid (also known as sour salt at some local grocers)
• 1/4 teaspoon sea salt
• 1 3/4 cups cane sugar
• Sparkling water, such as from a Sodastream, an iSi Soda Siphon or just club soda purchased from your local grocer

In a small pot, boil the water with the cinchona bark and lime juice at a low simmer for 30 to 45 minutes. Filter the resulting “tea” through a coffee filter to remove the debris from the cinchona bark and lime zest. While the liquid is still hot, add the sugar, salt and citric acid and stir vigorously. Cool the syrup in your refrigerator.

You’re almost there!

After the syrup has cooled, if you want to try plain tonic water,  add 1 part syrup to 2 to 3 parts sparkling water to taste. You’ve just created the most elegant, woodsy and deep-flavored tonic water. Ever. But, as British officers knew 150 years ago, this beverage needs gin! Experience this version, then move on to the recipe below.

To make the perfect homemade gin & tonic, start with a hearty gin such as Junipero or Tanquaray Classic. Into your favorite gin & tonic glass pour:

• 2 parts gin
• 1 part tonic water syrup
• 3-4 parts sparkling water

Drop a few ice cubes into your glass, admire the unique amber color of your beverage and quaff with delight.

Many insightful people have posted tonic water recipes with far more exotic ingredients (here, here and here), including saffron, lemongrass and coriander. Ugh. These only cover up the creativity of the gin maker! Gin has so many botanicals, so why pollute its flavor?  If you buy bad gin (or even worse, vodka), these recipes may be helpful. However, try this recipe with a good gin and your taste buds will fly!

Please comment if you’ve had a chance to make this tonic and have ideas to bring it closer to gin perfection!

Cucumber & Royale

Our friends at Hendricks revealed this delight of a drink:

1 oz Hendricks Gin
½ oz cucumber simple syrup (1 cucumber blended with 4 oz simple syrup)
rosé champagne

Pour ingredients in order into a champagne flute and stir gently. Garnish with cucumber slice and enjoy.

Tower of London

Bulldog Gin suggests this intriguing combination with an earthy green tea foundation and floral overtones:

2 oz Bulldog Gin
1½ oz St Germain Liqueur
2 oz green tea
1 oz simple syrup
0.5 oz sake

Shake well. Serve in a highball or collins glass over ice. Garnish with lychee.

French 75

Many people suggest the French 75 for a springtime cocktail, although we enjoy it year round. After all, a drink named after a World War I artillery shell should be enjoyed across the seasons. Nevertheless, the brightness of the champagne in this drink evokes summertime refreshment while the sweetness keeps the flavor profile grounded in spring. Plus the yellow pastel color matches the finest spring attire:

1½ oz gin
2 oz lemon juice
1 tsp quick-dissolving sugar
champagne

Fill a cocktail shaker two-thirds full of ice and add all the ingredients except champagne. Shake, then strain into a chilled champaign flute and top with a champagne. Garnish with a cherry.

Miller’s Pear-fection

This luscious cocktail from Martin Miller’s Gin also has a fabulous pastel color – orange – that certainly fits the season. The interplay between the gin, Pernod and Pear flavor is also plenty of fun!

2 oz Martin Miller’s Gin
4 oz pear nectar
½ oz Pernod Anise
1 oz simple syrup
0.5 oz sake

Shake well. Serve in a highball or collins glass over ice. Garnish with lychee.

Their tagline, “Not your grandmother’s gin” is an understatement to say the least. Some describe the aroma as “watermelon Jolly Ranchers”, but far more depth comes from CapRock’s fruity aroma. It would be candy if it wasn’t so luscious – and, of course, alchoholic. Peak Spirits doesn’t use common shortcuts like concentrates and flavor oils, but rather integrates ingredients like fresh-squeezed lemon and orange juice for components like citrus flavor. The result is richer than the average gin, but somewhat lacking in juniper for my tastes. Nevertheless, the bracing distilled fruit flavor makes up for it. As we head into summer, that means CapRock is a great foundation for a gin & tonic, especially for people who don’t like gin. For those who do like gin, it is delightfully complex simply on the rocks. Every sip will reveal a different element. Or do a cocktail riff on some of its core elements like apple or citrus.

I feel compelled to mention that CapRock is billed as the only organic gin distilled in the United States. They grow, ferment and distill at the Jack Rabbit Hill Biodynamic Farm in western Colorado’s North Fork Gunnison Valley. That’s nice, but not a compelling reason for me to like it. I like both “organic” and “inorganic” gins. What’s important is compelling flavor. CapRock certainly delivers in that regard. It is a wonderfully novel gin to add to your top shelf.

In the recent article Gin Time, Cheers Magazine reports on the increasing popularity of gin, attributing it to a combination of classic cocktails and the rise of New Western gins like Bluecoat, Beefeater 24 and Aviation.  They have it half right. Classic cocktails are the foundation of gin’s rise in popularity. Interest in all the classics like the Negroni, Pimms Cup and, of course the martini, have all contributed to gin’s recent popularity.

However, excellent cocktails demand a flavorful gin, and the focus on New Western gins is misguided. A martini without the woodsy elegance of juniper is disappointing at the least, and evolves into flavored vodka at the worst. Juniper defines gin. Distillers can play with the botanicals around the juniper to create innovative new gins. However, the less juniper you have, the less gin you have. New Western gins can function as “starter gins” for the fearful. However, gin needs juniper and, as the article states, “juniper-forward gin brands continue to lead the gin category.”

Juniper is not a cultivated crop. The plants grow wild and the people who harvest the berries pick by hand and throw the berries in a sack. It takes berries from more than one supplier to make up the amount a big distillery needs. Luckily, a little bit of juniper goes a long way. The berries are harvested in the fall and go through rigorous testing by each distiller to meet the grade necessary for a consistent quality beverage.

Gin is not the only the product based on the juniper berry. It is an important spice in the traditional dishes of Central Europe such as sauerkraut and venison. In ancient Rome, juniper berries were used in place of peppercorns that were rare and expensive. Juniper berries used for cooking are always crushed, never used whole. They are used sparingly, mostly with game meats, pork or for curing fish. Recipies that highlight juniper range from simple dishes like Blueberries in Gin Syrup to more subtle dishes like Juniper-Brined Roast Turkey. Yum!

When cooking with juniper, remember that it is used as a diuretic and also as an agent to stimulate uterine contractions during labor. Breastfeeding women, women who are pregnant, people with kidney disease, children under 12 and elderly people should not eat food prepared with juniper.

Juniper is used widely in herbal medications. It is used in the treatment of urinary tract infections. Its oil has an antiseptic quality that disinfects the urinary tract as it passes through. The berry also has a diuretic effect that dilutes the urine. It is also used in the treatment of bladder stones. It is used as a digestive aid and as a relief to many gastrointestinal disorders. It is purported to help with rheumatism, arthritis and gout. Applied as a poultice made with its diluted essential oil, it warms the tissues by perfusing them with blood. It relieves the pain of swollen and aching muscles and joints. Juniper can be inhaled as a vapor to help treat bronchitis and pulmonary infections and the berries can even be chewed to freshen the breath and heal infected gums. As was pointed out in using juniper in the kitchen, care must be taken in its usage and a qualified professional should supervise all usage. Because juniper bushes are plentiful in the grazing areas of sheep it has been noted that it has a curative effect on them, also. Local veterinarians used it to cure dropsy in sheep.

Botanicals have a rich history and role in folklore, juniper is no exception. The Holy Family was said to hide from King Herod’s soldiers in a juniper bush. In Grimm’s fairy tale called “The Juniper Tree,” murder, cannibalism and revenge all make for gruesome bedtime reading. Juniper was burned during outbreaks of the plague. Scottish folklore claims the smoke from juniper wood fires was used for ritual purification of temples. It is used for “smudging” a house to clear it of evil spirits and used a charm to ensure long term protection.

Juniper is the defining ingredient in gin, but the family has grown recently, adding new takes on the standard recipes. The selections range from Hendrick’s Gin, with its infusion of cucumber and rose to evoke the feel of drinking in an English garden to Aviation Gin in which lavender gets equal time all the way to Junipero, a gin hoped up on juniper-steroids so as to resemble a Steinhäger dry gin, one that is aromatic, but with few botanicals added. Finding the perfectly juniper-balanced gin for this evening may take awhile, but it is time well spent.

Gin’s rich history and cultural impact has graced us with many memorable quotes. Here is a collection of my favorites, best enjoyed with an Upside Down Martini, in memory of Julia Child.

[My longevity is because of] .. red meat and gin. - Julia Child

A good heavy book holds you down. It’s an anchor that keeps you from getting up and having another gin and tonic. – Roy Blount Jr.

The proper union of gin and vermouth is a great and sudden glory; it is one of the happiest marriages on earth, and one of the shortest lived. – Bernard DeVoto

Zen martini:  A martini with no vermouth at all.  And no gin, either. – P.J. O’Rourke

I’ll stick with gin.  Champagne is just ginger ale that knows somebody. - Alan Alda as Hawkeye in M*A*S*H, episode “Ceasefire”

And the sooner the tea’s out of the way, the sooner we can get out the gin, eh? - Henry Reed

[Gin has produced] … a drunken ungovernable set of people. – Thomas Wilson

Gin was mother’s milk to her. - George Bernard Shaw

Gin by pailfuls, wine in rivers, Dash the window-glass to shivers! For three wild lads were we, brave boys, And three wild lads were we; Thou on the land, and I on the sand, And Jack on the gallows-tree! - Sir Walter Scott

I exercise strong self control. I never drink anything stronger than gin before breakfast. – W.C. Fields

Of all the gin joints in all the towns in all the world, she walks into mine. – Humphrey Bogart as Rick in Casablanca

First, the last month’s release of the movie Julie and Julia showcases the cocktail’s creator and advocate, Julia Child.  I’ve always appreciated the fact that she attributed her longevity to “red meat and gin”.  Despite her perceived benefits of gin, vermouth was a far more popular ingredient in her recipes. The Upside Down Martini – with far more vermouth than gin – is naturally her cocktail of choice.

As the New York Times recently noted, the other big event is that Julia’s favorite vermouth, Noilly Prat, are returned to selling its original European recipe in the United States. The availability of this arguably richer vermouth means that we can now easily enjoy an Upside-Down Martini in the original form that Julia enjoyed. The recipe is quite simply:

5 parts dry vermouth (Noilly Prat is ideal)
1 part gin sweet vermouth
Lemon twist for garnish

Pour vermouth into a wine glass filled with ice, top with gin and garnish with lemon twist.

Smuggle into the theater and enjoy the next showing of Julie and Julia from a new perspective.