Let’s start with the basics: this gin is not subtle. It has been described by some as a punch in the gut. But, it is far more than that. It is no less than the American attack on London Dry Gin, combining the foundation of juniper with the enthusiasm and creativity of the New World. Yum.  The nose is subtle, hinting at juniper but mixing botanicals into a spicy blur that is simply enchanting. This gin brings you back to the days of Winston Churchill, who made his martinis by simply pouring gin into a glass and glancing across the room at a bottle of vermouth. Those were the good ol’ days.

You’ll find Junipero an excellent starting point for a strong gin & tonic. Mmmm. If you feel adventurous, go for a glass on the rocks.  Let it sit for a moment, savor the aroma and then take a sip, considering the bright future of gin.

Their tagline, “Not your grandmother’s gin” is an understatement to say the least. Some describe the aroma as “watermelon Jolly Ranchers”, but far more depth comes from CapRock’s fruity aroma. It would be candy if it wasn’t so luscious – and, of course, alchoholic. Peak Spirits doesn’t use common shortcuts like concentrates and flavor oils, but rather integrates ingredients like fresh-squeezed lemon and orange juice for components like citrus flavor. The result is richer than the average gin, but somewhat lacking in juniper for my tastes. Nevertheless, the bracing distilled fruit flavor makes up for it. As we head into summer, that means CapRock is a great foundation for a gin & tonic, especially for people who don’t like gin. For those who do like gin, it is delightfully complex simply on the rocks. Every sip will reveal a different element. Or do a cocktail riff on some of its core elements like apple or citrus.

I feel compelled to mention that CapRock is billed as the only organic gin distilled in the United States. They grow, ferment and distill at the Jack Rabbit Hill Biodynamic Farm in western Colorado’s North Fork Gunnison Valley. That’s nice, but not a compelling reason for me to like it. I like both “organic” and “inorganic” gins. What’s important is compelling flavor. CapRock certainly delivers in that regard. It is a wonderfully novel gin to add to your top shelf.

Gin may have been invented in Holland (well, jenever or genever at least), but England created the sensation across its empire. So, it’s only natural that botique gins have emerged in Massachusetts, USA. It may be the home of the American Revolution and the “cradle of liberty”, but the names of towns and cities bear the mark of the British Empire: Boston, Harwich, Gloucester, Hingham, Cheshire, Acton, Cambridge, Chatham, Chesterfield, Waltham and so on. Massachusetts is also one of the few places in the United States where sales of imported gins exceed those of domestic gins.

With this sophisticated palate and deep British foundations, it’s no surprise that Greylock Gin balances tradition with rebellion. Coming from the heart of the Berkshire Mountains, the stylish bottle belies the rural upbringing of this gin. A glance at the bottle evokes a martini at the Ritz, but a look at the map for Berkshire Mountain Distillers and you think of a mug of moonshine on the farm.

The taste brings the same dichotomy. Yes, there’s juniper.  But Greylock Gin’s fresh flavor is brighter than traditional london dry gin, with cinnamon, orange peel and angelica root smoothing things out. Yet, this gin is not as vague as New Amsterdam which seems to get lost in the wilderness of new ideas.

Greylock Gin is perfectly pleasant on the rocks, or you can excite your usual martini with a splash of orange bitters. The best cocktails build on Greylock’s friendlier botanicals, such as

• Mississippi Mule (2 ounces Greylock Gin, splash of Creme de Cassis, splash of Lemon Juice)
• Lavender Martini (2 ounces Greylock Gin, 1/2 ounce Dry Vermouth, 1/2 ounce Lavender Simple Syrup, splash of Orange Bitters)
• Aviation (2 ounces Greylock Gin, 1/2 ounce Maraschino, 1/4 ounce Lemon Juice)

Ponder the 1776 rebellion. Consider your own. Or just be satisfied. Greylock Gin reminds us of the benefits of both the old and the new.

]]> http://wiredgin.com/reviews/review-greylock-gin/feed/ 0 http://wiredgin.com/reviews/review-brokers-gin/ http://wiredgin.com/reviews/review-brokers-gin/#comments Mon, 06 Apr 2009 21:04:42 +0000 paul http://wiredgin.com/?p=101

Broker’s Gin comes to you with personality. It stands out on your local retailer’s shelf with a clever little black hat on top. The hat screams out “try me – I’m not like all those bare-headed gins!” What other gin takes such fashion risk?

Nevertheless, Broker’s Gin is a vintage gin in every way. Made at a distillery near London in a copper still, it is everything a gin needs to be. The time-honored juniper basis has been skillfully blended with traditional botanicals of coriander, orris root, nutmeg, cassia bark, cinnamon, licorice, orange & lemon peel and angelica root to produce a quality product from classic ingredients. They even claim that the water comes from an underground stream beneath the distillery.

As for cocktails, this gin is perfect for traditional fare. The mouth feel is heavy – some describe it as oily.  The juniper-forward yet friendly flavor makes for a great martini and it doesn’t get buried in a gin & tonic, gimlet or negroni. Broker’s speaks gin, pure and simple. No vodka allowed.

The higher proof of Broker’s makes it ideal for mixtures that would bury many of the new gins on the market today. Prefer to make your martini wet? Broker’s doesn’t care. Did you pour a little too much bitter lemon in your glass? Broker’s can help. The bottom line is that 94 proof can help with many cocktail errors.

The virtues of this gin make its price quite remarkable, around US$20. Buy some today. And enjoy!

Is it really gin?

Aviation Gin describes itself as a “botanical democracy”. Alas, democracy is for governments, and juniper is for gin. This unique gin lacks that anchor that all gins require. Of course, some juniper can be found in the mix, but it is well-buried.

Don’t get me wrong, this concoction is quite tasty. It just doesn’t taste like gin. I agree with Randy’s assessment that “…the distillers may be trying to shatter some preconceived notions of what gin should be.”  That said, enjoy it straight but don’t expect it to satisfy in any standard gin cocktail.

Oh, and don’t get me started on the fact that they named this gin after a cocktail, requiring you to confusingly order an Aviation made with Aviation. Ack.

Whitley Neill gin was launched this year in the United States. It was created just a couple of years ago by someone who decided to save his “deteriorating eyesight from the joy of more mind-numbing spreadsheets”. I’m glad spreadsheets can have such inspiration! This gin is “made in London” and “inspired by Africa”, bringing innovative botanicals like gooseberries and baobab fruit to its flavorings. Other flavors include standards such as juniper, coriander, lemon & orange peel, angelica root, cassia bark and orris root.

Despite its exotic positioning and slightly higher alcohol content (42%), this gin starts silky smooth. After lingering in your mouth a bit, the flavor wakes up. Once is does, yow – what fun! Tart gooseberries dance delightfully with the bright and citrusy botanicals. With less of a juniper bite, Whitney Neill is a good starter gin, but the flavors are interesting enough to captivate experienced gin lovers as well.

For my tastes, it starts a bit too subtle for a gin & tonic, but wonderfully explored simply on the rocks. It also brings a delightful zing to a martini or negroni. Shake one up today.

Whitley Neill is a solid 4 out of 5. Definitely worth a try.